Get tickets to the Hot 10 party. 8:43 a.m. I’m at Ochre Bakery, and the first thing I’m eating today is a danish, the crumbly, deep-golden pastry barely holding on to the squiggles of still-juicy rhubarb in the center. Years later, after his mom died, he began hosting Lao pop-ups as a side project (he was a Hewlett-Packard engineer by day), then left his job to open Khao Noodle. 8:58 a.m. Can we talk about this bread? I fell for Kopitiam in its first iteration, a hole-in-the-wall Malaysian coffee shop on the border of Chinatown. Longoven is the most unlikely standout fine-dining restaurant in America. Get the recipe: Miso Pork Ribs with Chile-Honey Glaze. Together they transformed the 1860s Catholic church and schoolhouse into 71 hotel rooms unlike any other—plus magical open-to-the-public spaces like this very bar. Sirisavath, who was born in Amarillo, grew up helping his mom in the kitchen of her Thai restaurant, learning how to make pad kee mao and wok-fried rice. Mirazur (Menton ... A Year of Dreams Deferred 2020 saw many aspiring entrepreneurs hit pause on plans for new restaurants … And once I tried the deep-fried tripe chicharrones and the musubi-like moutsayhang (a two-bite stack of crispy pork patty, sticky rice, and a thin layer of omelet), it was clear that Sirisavath was telling a story all his own. Step through the door of the windowless building in Culver City and get time-warped to a bygone Hollywood era of steaks and oysters Rockefeller and martinis. We’ve done the legwork. 13 Exciting New Restaurants in Minneapolis and St. Paul Right Now, December 2020 Sunny breakfast sandwiches, charred pizza crust, and beer cheese ribs by Joy Summers @JoyEstelle Updated Dec 3, 2020, 10:26am CST Clockwise from top: diver scallops, albacore tostadas, and New York steak at Terrace by Mix Mix. Benne on Eagle. Muffins and Lemon-Pistachio Loaf in the pastry case. The result: dishes—like a tamal stuffed with goat barbacoa, and a thin, crispy milanesa made with quail and paired with a red mole—that taste totally new without being vain about it. "The most iconic dish Indians make at home," says Surti: We've adapted these addictive ribs so you can make them at home with excellent results. Whitaker installed the wood-fired oven specifically for baking his signature piada, a fluffy, hot, pita-like disk of bread made with heirloom grains. Alta Adams at 5359 West Adams Boulevard, If you have grown weary of “gastronomy” and its countless pretenses, this chill, female-fronted hangout might be your end-of-the-decade antidote. A musk was hiding in the mignonette. Asheville, NC. Wet khao soy with rice noodles, mushrooms, and fermented pork. Well, spoiler alert: The brick-and-mortar Longoven, which finally opened last year, is mind-bogglingly good—each dish so technically precise, so truly dedicated to ingredients, not to mention so, so pretty. December 1, 2020 The 2019 World’s 50 Best Restaurants List. Black Lives Matter. Sirisavath says he learned everything he knows about restaurants from his mom, Phaysane. Automatic Seafood and Oysters at 2824 Fifth Avenue South, Look, sometimes a great restaurant takes a while to hit its stride. Just a little? Ten minutes north of the White House and its sour, divisive rhetoric, immigrants are throwing a party. The owners of the thirty-five-year-old Gotham Bar & Grill kicked off a summer skirmish when they bid farewell to downtown stalwart Alfred Portale and replaced him with Chilean culinary firebrand Victoria Blamey, whose hold-nothing-back approach to acid and spice is a far cry from the tuna tartare of yore. I apologize to anyone who was sitting near me—although eventually the same thing happened to them. THE MOVE: Time your visit around 9:30 to (try and) snag one of the 36 chocolate croissants. Best restaurants in Arkansas 2019. Nari at 1625 Post Street, The name means “good times” in French, of course, and what’s impressive about Bon Temps is that you can interpret that however you want. Chef-owner Jessica Hicks decorates the Lemon-Pistachio Loaf. Come back in the a.m.—there is no better breakfast than trout and grits. Eem. Behind it all is the earnestness and maturity of three people who have worked harder than I can imagine to get to this place and who take none of their (unlikely) success for granted. Occasionally dim sum can be a bit of a bait-and-switch: divine in the abstract, disappointing in execution, at least in the United States. That feeling, more than any unifying trend or overarching theme, is what defines the best new restaurants for 2019. Course 11: The black-sesame-tahini-chocolate gold bar now has a cult following, but don’t sleep on the blueberry macarons, pâte de fruit, and sage-caramel bonbons. Or maybe I’ll just never leave. And the egg salad one made Instagram-famous by its orange-yellow yolk half-moons. Monet’s dining room in Giverny inspired the breakfast room, and the dish set he used there inspired these hand-thrown custom plates from ceramist Jono Pandolfi. The Kir Royale (right) comes in a Nick & Nora glass with subtle lace etching made by British company Steelite. A place where you just wanna hang out, as golden hour fades, hoping the night never ends. Eat. Commence the evening with a mezcal pickleback infused with charred corn and smoked chiles and you’ll be drifting through the Hill Country before you know it. Sushi Note at 13447 Ventura Boulevard; Odo at 17 West Twentieth Street, When you’re craving Texas barbecue, the first place you imagine finding it probably isn’t alongside a clean and tidy hotel lobby in the Pacific Northwest. Is it possible to love someone without really knowing them? In the past year, four restaurants have opened in St. Louis hotels, upping the options for hotel dining. Moutsayhang is a play on Hawaii’s Spam musubi. Cooks dip the pork cutlets in egg yolk, letting the excess drip off. But every now and then a pasta emporium comes along (last year it was Misi in New York, and in 2017 it was Felix Trattoria in southern California) whose handiwork with flour, water, and salt turns me into a quivering mess of pleasure. The toothy mafaldine I had one night—made from local grains milled in-house and tangled up with morsels of grassy whey-braised Colorado lamb and tender little peas—was the single most exciting plate of pasta I ate this year. A half-empty wine glass topped off with a wink. Always remember: “Simple” doesn’t mean “easy,” and the size of a place is no indication of its ambition. But did Whitaker really have to take the leftover bran from milling that flour and use it to ferment all sorts of electric, eyebrow-raising pickled vegetables? This is a rare thing to find, and I felt lucky just to be there. —J.K. Making noodles from scratch isn't easy or fast, but Sirisavath says you can taste the labor and the love that goes into them. THE MOVE: Desserts are wild and not to be overlooked. Course 1: Snacks at Longoven mean a tiny nasturtium-covered carrot-mole tart, a fried squid ink “churro,” and nori crackers with smoked mackerel. Esquire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. The pleasure of Matt’s BBQ Tacos is pure and simple: When I think about where I was the happiest on the road this year, my mind immediately goes to sitting in the sunshine (yes, in the Pacific Northwest!) Kāwi at 20 Hudson Yards, #501, I’m bound to love any restaurant that has a dessert called “we finally got a piece of the pie.” (And if you don’t get the reference, or the extra layer of meaning behind it, I’m not going to explain it to you here.) Comedor has something called “masa spaetzel” that I want served to me in a bucket when I’m on my deathbed, and it’s got a chocolate tamal for dessert that I expect to encounter if I make it to heaven. You can make a meal out of gulf shrimp showered in bottarga breadcrumbs or steamed mussels in smoky tomato broth—this is not a town that messes with dainty bar snacks. Comedor at 501 Colorado Street, Nothing surprised me more this year than cruising along a dark patch of the Pacific Coast Highway and finding myself in a space as sexy as some next-wave bistronomy outpost in Provence. We’re aware that Kwame Onwuachi’s Kith/Kin opened about two years ago, but we’re stretching the boundaries of “newness” here because it would be a travesty not to raise a toast to the audacity and originality of his cooking down by the Wharf. At least the memories will last forever. We hope you're hungry. Small dishes help create a Lao street food experience. American chefs talk about opening “odes” to little spots they stumbled upon in Tokyo, and while this 10-seat space is indeed Montgomery and Akuto’s ode to Japan’s konbini (24-hour convenience stores), there is a palpable intensity to their level of study that makes Konbi entirely its own. This 18-Foot BBQ Smoker Was Stolen. Jeff Gordinier, Esquire’s Food & Drinks editor, has been logging countless miles for the past 12 months, crisscrossing this big country looking for the best eats, the best drinks, the best backstories, the best vibes. Go all in at night: a whole Jidori chicken, risotto thickened with bone marrow, a chocolate soufflé with Chartreusey ice cream riding shotgun. —A.S. —Kevin Sintumuang. After years of running his pop-up restaurant VEA, Surti can turn any space into a kitchen, including the bar counter of Tailor. Jeff Gordinier is Esquire's Food & Drinks Editor. How her cooking connects her back to her family. Posted Dec. 13, 2019 & filed under Food and Drink . Every day since then I have thought about Konbi. Deviled eggs are converted into a dip for crudités; chicken wings turn absurdly tender after a braise in pot likker, the liquid you get after you cook collard greens. Not a good feeling. Don’t get me wrong, I am extremely into the fact that I can start my meal with a hot puffy disk of chef Kelly Whitaker’s heirloom-grain piada bread straight from the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. More. THE MOVE: Grab one of everything from the pastry case to go—and a loaf of bread too. Velvety mac and cheese. The magic of Carson’s all-purpose downtown atelier is that it’s serving food as luxurious and meticulous as anything in Paris or Tokyo but it’s doing so with a sprezzatura breeziness that makes the whole experience feel like a day at the beach. … Baltimore (yeah, Baltimore) can now make rightful claim to having the sexiest third-date spot in America. At a time when design trends come and go so fast (ahem, pink neon), it’s unusual to step into a space with such a deep sense of character. The complex has been revived by Nathalie Jordi, a former journalist, in collaboration with the Brooklyn-based developer ASH NYC (also behind Providence’s The Dean hotel and The Siren in Detroit) and NOLA’s StudioWTA. Nine months ago I made a mental note of the tall teal bottle in a restaurant bathroom in Los Angeles. After we spent months traveling the country and eating ourselves into a state of jaded, overfed delirium, these 10 restaurants were the places that snapped us out of it. I was so fixated on the pastry case, I didn’t notice the room behind the counter where cult local baker Max Leonard babysits the sourdoughs. The pasta drying room features a large glass window that looks into the restaurant's main dining room. This winter Vicedomini followed that up with not one but two new spots, both of which show off his legendary brisket, simply seasoned but expertly smoked, low and slow, over oak for 10-to-12 hours. Nari integrates California produce into traditional recipes that Thai women have passed along for generations, like gaeng gradang (fried nuggets of northern Thai headcheese) and kapi plah (a funky spread of smashed prawns and shrimp paste). Get tickets to the Hot 10 party. 50 Best Restaurants 2019 2019 marked an extraordinary year of dining in Northern Virginia. He eventually settled in Portland and opened a trailer—Matt’s BBQ—in the parking lot of a pawnshop. Leftover lard from his restaurant Eem. Albena, Detroit. The key to the perfectly chewy flour tortillas at Matt’s BBQ Tacos? The chefs—Andrew Manning, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Patrick Phelan—have little name recognition outside their hometown. The burger is very good, but what I kept daydreaming about after visiting Billy Durney’s ode to the old New York were the croquettes (which tasted like ham and cheese and rye from a corner bodega by way of Barcelona), and the wedge salad with a rasher of bacon as big as a baseball bat, and the confidence of the Hemingway daiquiri—as though the bartender understands that this is a tavern, damn it, and the cocktails matter. This is not the first restaurant to serve French classics in a cozy, warmly lit, slightly ramshackle bistro setting. How she hasn’t seen her parents in 11 years. So Do Black-Owned Businesses. Chef Adam Evans, a product of Muscle Shoals, is paying homage to a specifically southern tradition of seafood cookery, and he’s doing it in a spacious, wide-windowed room that feels like a boat club where nobody’s a snob. For as satisfying and timeless and rustic as these dishes are, the food is not even really what Le Comptoir is about. Then I showed up to meet a friend for a drink at the hotel’s restaurant, the Elysian Bar, which occupies the ground floor of a building that used to be the rectory. As Lower East Siders with white sneakers and AirPods crammed into the space, Pang seemed to only dig deeper. Fact: Breakfast tacos just taste better outside. Don't see your favorite new place on the list? Its sheer popularity should make it a maddening place (and a maddening choice for best new restaurant). THE SETUP: Breakfast-and-lunch food trailer with picnic tables, THE ORDER: Sliced brisket taco, migas breakfast taco, chips and queso. But don’t you think that the binchotan-fueled Japanese robata grill, the one they use to sizzle skewers—a juicy chicken meatball, or crispy-edged mortadella—to succulent perfection is kind of gilding the lily? THE PLAYERS: Chef/managing partner Vivek Surti, THE SETUP: Gujarat meets the American South via a set menu. THE SETUP: Snack-size Laotian at high-top communal tables, day and night, THE ORDER: Boat noodles, khao soi, moutsayhang (spiced pork-and-rice bites), shrimp bites. Breakfast and late-night … THE ORDER: That’s up to Surti and the seasons. Here are the best new restaurants of 2019 in each city across the US. Is it too much to ask that they save some of the fun for everyone else? 8 Tempus. And yet: They turn out the silkiest chicken liver pâté. The space is comparatively sprawling, with lots of good light coming in through the big windows facing East Broadway and a whole expanded menu of brothy, noodle-y, rice-y dishes showered with those shoestring-fry-like anchovies. It’s fusion with a heart—and without any bitter colonialist aftertaste. You want to, though. Design firm ASH NYC modeled these barstools after a midcentury stool from Italian furniture maker Bonacina. Restaurants Thai Nolita. Then things quiet a bit until the next spot roars onto O.C.’s dining landscape. The Chocolate-Hazelnut Cookies are too small to share (at least that’s what we told ourselves). Led by James Beard nominated chef-operator Ben Grupe, Tempus is a serious restaurant full of radiant ideas, surgical execution and, most importantly, delicious food. Kaya butter toast, with a thick layer of pandan leaf and coconut jam sandwiched between two golden slices of fluffy bread, is a must-order. Wanna try Ochre Bakery's food? But if there’s any place in the country that’s making this quintessential genre feel fresh and new and fun and youthful, it’s Baltimore’s Le Comptoir du Vin. Dig in! What about a restaurant? I have never had a more perfect artichoke than the one I wolfed down during lunch one afternoon at Green Almond Pantry. Buy Tickets, Alta Adams is more than a mere restaurant. Now, in a strip mall in East Dallas—an area once home to many Southeast Asian refugees in the late ’70s and early ’80s—Sirisavath serves a menu inspired not by books or classes or other restaurants but by his own singular vision, rooted in family and place. This cart-slash-magazine holder was bought from a Parisian textile dealer who had been using it as a display. There was so much more I wanted to know about Pang, about Kopitiam. We've adapted these addictive ribs so you can make them at home with excellent results. Cutlets get a drizzle of tonkatsu sauce, then mustard. The scent: eucalyptus, but, like, real, woodsy eucalyptus—not potpourri-esque. THE MOVE: Make a reservation. These Are the Best New Restaurants of 2019, According to Food&Wine. I have learned to accept disappointment.) 2019 | Nolita. I looked back at the menu. By now, she has utterly recharged a restaurant that had vanished from the conversation. THE PLAYERS: Managing partner Joaquin Rodas, chef Alex Harrell, general manager Lisa Nguyen, THE SETUP: 19th-century-church becomes old-world hotel bar, THE ORDER: Duck egg omelet with caviar and any spritz you feel like. Please don’t hate me. The sauce was “scented with fragrance from mangda water beetle.” Pim Techamuanvivit’s menu at Nari (executed nightly by chef de cuisine Meghan Clark) overflows with lovely surprises like that. Is there anything better than a thick, wobbly slice of brisket, topped with pickled red onions and guacamole and wrapped up in those flour tortillas? at one of the picnic tables next to the trailer, folding up the most irrefutably delicious tacos one after the next, pausing only to dip a fresh-fried tortilla chip into creamy queso. The deeply savory pandan chicken, a compact triangle of minced chicken, is wrapped in aromatic pandan leaves that impart a sweet and grassy aroma. THE MOVE: Ask about the daily specials on weekends and you will be rewarded. 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